Frequently asked questions
What is a native/indigenous plant?
Native or indigenous plants are plants which have existed in a given region for thousands of years and which are an integral part of the natural balance of the ecosystem where they are located. These plants are not recent introductions to a region, but rather plants which have co-evolved with numerous other species over a long period of time, forming intimate and sometimes mutualistic relationships with local biodiversity. In the United States, we generally refer to plants as “native” or “indigenous” if they existed in the area prior to European contact and subsequent colonization. While nature is never static and native ecosystems all over the world do shift and evolve–especially during periods of pronounced climate change–for the purposes of this website, we refer to native or indigenous plants as plants which naturally occur in the LA region under current local and regional climatic constraints, and which serve as a valuable source of habitat for native animals.
Why are these called “micro forests?” We don’t have “forests” in LA.
The term “forest” is being used to describe a multi-layered, densely vegetated, complete ecosystem with native plants and trees whose canopies are close enough to touch. The equivalent natural plant community fitting this description is the oak forest/woodland, or in areas near waterways, the riparian forest/woodland. While not the same as temperate or tropical forests, our local woodlands serve the same ecosystem function as other forests worldwide, and have largely been undermined by widespread urban development and habitat loss/fragmentation. Planting micro forests is a way to reconnect this habitat in the city and restore the ecosystem, one “forest” at a time.
Can I plant a micro forest with existing trees/vegetation?
As long as the long-term watering requirements are the same between the existing vegetation and the micro forest plants, you can plant a micro forest with existing vegetation. Go through the same steps on this website for planting a new micro forest, and deduct the number of trees or plants you already have in your landscape from your final count, making sure to deduct trees from the tree category, or shrubs from the “shrubs and perennials” category, etc. The end result might be a hybrid between native and non-native vegetation, and therefore may have mixed results and/or habitat benefits.
Note: If planting under a large canopied tree, you may consider using the “Shady Forest” palette. And if planting under a mature native oak tree, leave several feet undisturbed from the trunk of the tree and plant only in the late fall or winter time. Only spot water in the summer, and reduce the frequency of the watering in the summertime so as not to promote conditions for root rot for your mature oak.
I don’t want (or I am not allowed) to plant trees. Can I plant a short micro forest (without the trees)?
While a forest isn’t a forest without trees, you can definitely still plant a valuable native chaparral or coastal sage scrub ecosystem without the top two layers of the forest. Simply omit the canopy and tree options and select species from the sub-tree and shrubs/herbaceous perennials categories instead. All other steps to planting and establishing the forest will be the same.
What is the best season to plant?
The easiest time to plant is during the cooler, wetter months. The most difficult time to plant is in the summer or early fall when the weather is still hot and the soil has been dry the longest. In areas of winter frost, springtime planting is ideal. In areas without winter frost, either winter or spring are lovely times to get plants in the ground.
I want a low-water lawn replacement. Is a micro forest a good idea?
If you want the aesthetics of a low, green groundcover, a micro forest is not for you. Consider other drought-tolerant, low-growing shrubs or native lawn substitutes. The Theodore Payne Foundation is a good resource to learn more.
Can I use your watering guidelines for any drought-tolerant, native landscape or garden?
Absolutely, as long as you’ve selected species which are locally/regionally native or equivalent performers. Unfortunately, many plants in the CA native horticulture industry are from parts of California which have much more mild climatic conditions than we have in the LA region, so careful species selection is very important if you actually want a resilient landscape.
What about annual wildflowers?
Since micro forests rely on a thick layer of mulch to help feed the soil and inhibit weed growth, annual wildflowers are not recommended and would likely fail to germinate. Wildflowers require open soil and abundant sunshine to grow, so the best use of them would be around the perimeter of the forest rather than inside the forest.
Can I plant a micro forest in my parkway?
Micro forests are not recommended for the parkway, though some of the lower growing species might be permitted under certain situations, as well as some of the tree species. For more information about what is and isn’t permitted in the parkway, go here.
I live in a high fire severity zone. Can I still plant a micro forest on my property?
It is difficult to maintain the thinning and spacing landscaping requirements for homes in high fire severity zones within the context of dense, multilayered micro forests. If your property is large and you can space the forest beyond the threshold where thinning and fuel management is required by law (typically 100’-200’, depending on jurisdiction), then it’s no problem. However, many properties do not have that much space to plant the forest so far away.
If brush clearance regulations are not enforced in your neighborhood, and you wish to plant a micro forest, keep the footprint of the forest on the smaller side and ensure that there is a non-combustible, weed-free buffer or fire-break in the form of hardscape, wide DG pathways, gravel, etc. around the forest. For fire safety, it’s better to have multiple smaller forests that are broken up by hardscape of some kind, than one continuous forest. In other words, if one of the micro forests was to catch fire, would the fire stay isolated to that one forest, or would it be close enough to other forests (or more importantly, to your home) to catch those on fire too? Consider the future mature canopy spread of your trees when planning on where to locate your forest, as well as proximity to wooden fences or any combustible materials that are in contact with your home.
Remember: The single most valuable thing you can do to protect your home from the risks of wildfire is to HARDEN YOUR HOME and create a 5’ non-combustible, ember-resistant zone (ERZ) around your house. The vast majority of homes catch fire during wildfires due to embers showering on the home itself or within 5 feet of the home, catching a wood pile, dead leaves in the rain gutters, or patio umbrella on fire. For some tips on home-hardening and landscaping guidelines for homes where fire risk is high, check out Sustainable Defensible Space.
Why are you encouraging people to plant forests when we are in a drought?
Micro Forests are planted with regional native shrubs and trees, which are adapted to drought and local climatic conditions. After the initial establishment period, they will survive with minimal to no supplemental irrigation. The long-term water savings and ecological benefits greatly outweigh the initial use of resources to establish the micro forest.
Why aren’t your tree/shrub ratios consistent with the Miyawaki Method?
The Miyawaki Method was developed in a temperate climate with abundant rainfall. Due to our harsher and drier climate, the native plant communities of the LA region evolved differently from trees and plants in temperate or tropical forests.
The adaptations made to the Miyawaki Method on this website have taken into account that the native plant life of the LA region is adapted to surviving without rain for most of the year, is largely shrub-dominated, is dependent on higher levels of sunlight for seed production, and has lower tree diversity than many of the other areas worldwide where this method is being utilized. The author of this website also uses intact natural plant communities and successional patterns of vegetation as a guide for formulating the most reasonable ratios of trees to shrubs. Based on this approach, the ratios of trees and shrubs based on each layer are:
Canopy: 5%
Trees: 5%
Sub-Trees: 30%
Shrubs and Perennials: 60%
The current guidelines presented here are in keeping with the spirit of the Miyawaki Method, while customizing it for our unique climate and region. The current ratios may be subject to change as more micro forest research is done in the LA region.
Are these maintenance watering schedules compliant with LADWP watering restrictions?
If we estimate that running a regular high-volume lawn sprinkler for 8 minutes is equivalent to roughly 0.25” of precipitation, and knowing that current LADWP regulations restrict outdoor sprinkler usage to two cycles of 8 minutes a week, then we can calculate that LADWP’s current max water usage for the entire year is 24” / yr.
As such, every single maintenance watering option outlined above utilizes FAR less water than what LADWP currently allows for landscape irrigation (between 0% and 40% of LADWP’s current allowance).
Why didn’t you include [fill-in-the-blank] species as an option in your plant calculator?
This micro forest website is meant to support and guide individuals who may not be well-versed in California native plant species and horticulture. In the interest of keeping things simple and digestible, the species options in the plant calculator, while thorough, are not entirely exhaustive. If you are an expert in CA native plants, you may certainly choose to include additional species of trees, shrubs, or perennials that are not listed on this website.
Why focus more on the winter and spring for maintenance watering when summer is the hottest and driest time of the year?
Watering in winter and spring is more important for the health of your forest than watering in the summer. Regionally appropriate, drought-tolerant native plants are adapted to go through the entire summer without rainfall as long as they’ve received enough water in the winter and spring. If you are going to neglect your forest for part of the year, it is better to neglect it during the summer–when it is used to not receiving any rain–than to neglect it during the winter or spring when it is expecting and relying on rainfall to get it through the rest of the year. In addition, excessive summer irrigation creates conditions favorable to root rot and other diseases for drought-tolerant native plants.